June 15th, 2022
Woke up early today with a huge headache due to the crappy bed and pillow at the hotel. Overall I did feel better in the stomach department and the dust congestion was well on its way to clearing, just a really sore neck and the headache.
Took a bit more effort to get going this morning, but finally got packed up and dressed for the days ride. Took the tank bag down to the bike and got it setup, but the truck was still parked offsite somewhere, so could not drop off the camp bag yet. I then went to have a small breakfast.
Once done I took the rest of my gear down and finished loading up the bike, then stood around in the parking area until the truck arrived to take on the camp bags. Dropped it in pile near truck and then watched them load the truck up. (Was like a big game of Tetris trying to get maximum usage of the space in this small truck!)
We soon hit the highway out of Sissu and headed for Sarchu, which would be our camp for tonight.
The road was mostly village for the first 20 miles till we hit the last fuel stop for a long way and filled up. (I was nearly on empty at this point).
Back on the road things started to open up and the road slowly climbed into the river valley. I eventually ended up riding solo again, most of the others ahead of me and a few behind me.
Onto the Manali-Leh Highway (2:58)
Was a nice road with a few areas of construction, or some slide damage to deal with and a few villages now and then to pass through. Traffic was very busy, but moved well enough unless you caught it around the road construction spots. This is where you found the all to familiar 1 lane road for bi-directional traffic with no one controlling who goes when.
Usually able to filter past on the bikes, but did have several pucker moments doing that, but all part of the experience I guess!
Stopped once or twice to take photos, but was quite hazy, so not the best views today.
Finally caught up with the group at a security checkpoint. These typically take 5-10 minutes, so time to get off bike, take a leak or change a battery in the GoPro and maybe do some photos if the area has some nice views.
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| Bridge before the security checkpoint. |
Once past the checkpoint we started a slow climb up toward BaralanchaLa Pass (4980m, 16,339 feet). Some amazing views, but also very windy and getting much cooler now as well. While not unbearable, was the coldest day riding yet and happy I had put on the extra layers today.
Starting up BaralanchaLa (1:00)
As we started the endless series of switchbacks and curves up the mountain the riding became more tiring with constant direction changes and frequent gear changes, plus the added risk on the corners with the heavy truck traffic.
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| Heading up BaralanchaLa |
I stopped about half way up to piss (something you just do on the roadside, no one bats an eye at it!) and then took some photos with the DSLR. When I then went to use the cell phone to take a few more photos it was gone!!!!
I removed everything from the tank bag and searched, not there. Fucking Hell!! Had a bit of a breakdown at this point, losing that was a major blow, not only for the amount of photos and video on there from the trip so far, but my airline boarding software to get boarding passes and info, and the rest of my life that was on that phone. I put most of the stuff back into the tank bag and then just slumped over the bike in a state of despair.
The tail sweep guy arrived about then along with the support truck. I mentioned that I could not find it, and then stepped away from the bike a bit, and then suddenly noticed it on the ground where I almost put my foot down!
I can only guess that when I removed the DSLR it had snagged the cell phone and yanked it out of the bag and it fell to the ground, but I did not see or hear it happen. I picked up the phone and dusted it off, and wondered how many times I had kicked it or knocked debris onto it while laying there. I put it back in the bag and got back on the bike to continue.
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| On the way to the top |
Reached the top of the pass and we were all there in a group again. Took my photos and sorted the tank bag a bit to hopefully avoid a future repeat of this morning, then changed batteries in the GoPro and put in a new SD card.
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| The top of the pass. |
We then did a group photo at the pass and started back on the road, well, most did.
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| Group Photo: Riders and Crew |
I for some reason had put the dead battery back into the GoPro, so had to take a few more minutes to get that resolved, so I was now several minutes behind the rest of the group.
I did catch up with several of the others who had been stopping for photos and continued down in that grouping.
During an attempt to pass a truck, the rider in front of me (Joe from Canada) hit some loose rock and tipped the bike and fell over. I stopped to make sure he was good. He was okay and was able to lift bike and get going again.
About 2 minutes later, while trying to pass an oncoming truck I too hit loose rock and ended up in a bad spot and the bike tipped. I was able to just step/jump off the bike as it tipped and stopped my own fall to the ground by catching myself on the side of the truck (which was thankfully only moving about 2 mph, if that). The truck stopped for a second, but I then waved him on, I was fine and needed him to move so I could lift the bike back up.
The sweep rider was right behind me, so he was already stopped and off his bike to help me lift it and then I was able to continue onward.
The only issue I could find was the GoPro was now at an odd angle, the impact having jolted it some. I moved it back best I could as I was riding and it seems to have worked fine there. At the base of the mountain we reached a flat area and soon stopped for lunch at a line of food/rest huts built along the side of the road.
I was not super hungry, but ate a bit and then messed with the gear on the bike, found a place to piss and then tried to relax. Was really starting to get tired at this point and the headache was coming back again (had never really left to be honest). Took a pain killer and a vitamin and then tried to relax on my bike and close my eyes to rest them for a bit. Was not cold right now as the sun was still high in the sky and were were back down a bit in altitude as well, but the wind was still blowing and creating some chill in the air. Really just wanted to get to camp at this point.
We eventually got back on the road and I just took it easy as the camp was only about 20km (12 miles) away. I was basically the last to arrive again and pulled into the tent site and unpacked the bike.
These Swiss tents (Dorje Camps) were similar to the last set we had used at the lake, maybe a bit nicer, but was a very primitive location again. Ended up in a tent with Jerry again tonight, not sure why they keep changing who we room with, since many others have stayed with same person since the beginning.
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| Camp tonight. |
Got into the tent and sat down and just rested for a least 30 minutes till the truck arrived with the camp bags.
Changed into the camp clothes, then rigged up a line with bungee cords outside to hang still very damp clothes so they could dry in the nice windy weather.
Put batteries on the charging modules and organized a few things, then laid down for a nap.
Did not really get much rest though as my neck was again aggravated by bed/pillow issues and was also getting up every 20 minutes to piss, probably due to the cold which has this effect on me.
Repeated that cycle for about 2 hours and finally got up and walked over to the main tent for snacks/tea (mainly wanted the tea, hoping there is enough caffeine to help ease the headache.)
Got to the tent and found there was little food left, and what was left was not anything I wanted to eat. But the tea was nice and hot, so that really helped out.
Sat there for a good hour and had several cups of tea while the pain slowly ebbed away and I found the energy to stay awake longer.
Eventually we all filtered back to our tents to wait for the call to dinner. I sorted some more stuff and put on a few more layers for warmth and then sat down to get the journal caught up or until dinner was ready. Hopefully I can find something to eat and will then take a decongestant to help with the cough and congestion I was having due to the dust and cold temperatures.
We went over for dinner and had some nice warm soup and then my current diet of rice and bread. Also tried a small desert and lots more tea. Spent around 30 minutes having various conversations and then went back to the tent to hopefully get some sleep. It was getting cold out, but we were also camping at 4450m (14,600 feet).
Tomorrow is the long hard slog to Leh, nearly 250km (155 miles), twice our typical daily ride, but should be mostly tarmac road, but still have two 5000+ meter passes to get over and the Gata Loops which are 21 switchbacks up the first pass which we will come upon early in the days ride.
But getting to Leh will be quite the accomplishment and will be our base for the rest of our explorations of the Ladakh region.
Good night!
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| Ride Route (119km/74 miles) |
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